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Winners of ...

The Challenge 

of The Year,

Year After Year  

Seeing the larger version is a must, to appreciate the work.

 

2011

Larger Version

in Artwork

Wow! No Great Challenges Since 2011! 

 

  2008

 Larger Version 

in General Restorations

 

2007

 Larger Version 

in General Restorations

 

 

2006

Larger Version

in Scrapbook Inspirations

 

 

 

 

2005

  Larger Version

in General Restorations

 

 

Hairstyles and Jewelry

1840, 1850, 1860, 1870, 1880, 1890, 1900, 1910, 1920 

1840

 

 

 

 

 

1840 

 

 

 

From the movie "Young Victoria"

 

 

 

 

 

1840 - 1856

narrow long brim close to the face.

 

 

 

 

 

 

1846

brooch

hair bun high on the head.

 

 

 

1846 variations, side part and ringlets.

pearls, earrings and bow.

 

 

 

 

 

1847 Clarke sisters

Side hair rolled under. Hair rolled lower on the back of the head.

pierced ears, large brooch on crisscross ribbon

 

 

 

 

1847

 

She has a braid wrapped around her bun.

 

 

 

 

1849

Earrings, brooch's, crosses on chains

 

 

 

 

1850

 

 

1850 Susan B. Anthony still wearing last years fashions, don't forget fashion trends over lap decades. Paisley shawl, the little collar were being replace by the wider white lace collar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

1857 Louisa May Alcott  age 25, so not just the older women liked this do.

 

 

 

 

 

1851

 

By 1850s the bonnet brim was shorter and exposed the face more. Bonnets were worn by women and young girls wore hats.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1856 Elizabeth Cady Stanton and her daughter Harriet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1857

 

 

 

 

1860

 

 

Anne Surrat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By the mid 60s bonnets changed shape. 

 1864

1869

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1870

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1880

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1880

Look at this close up of  of a late 1880s photograph with a woman's hair up in what we call now "the French twist".  I guess there is just so much you can do, casual hairstyles don't seem to change much

 

 

 

 

 

1880

finger waves and hairpieces

 

 

 

 

 

1880

curly bangs

 

 

 

 

 

1900

Photo Dating Notes:

Barrel curls

Bologna curls

Ringlets

Finger waves

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1900

 

Marie Studholme

 

 

 

ringlets

 

 

 

 

 

 

1900 -1914

 

 

Gibson Girls hairstyles

great variations depending on how thick the hair

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1910

head bands

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1900 - 1920's

Big hair bows, bangs cut straight across forehead and strap shoes currently being called Mary Janes, all are of the 

 

 

 

 

 

1911 my father 

bangs cut across the forehead

boy with a dress

white stockings

button boots

 

 

 

 

 

 

Known date 1925 

my mother grandmother and great grandmother

Photo Dating Notes:

Big Bows and hair cut straight across the forehead "bangs" were popular in the 1900 - 1920's.  

Dresses were straight with the waist line dropped to the hips and mid-calf lengths.    

 

 

 

 

Even the adults wore the strap shoes (Mary Janes) seen here in both photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1920-1930s

Not every one had finger waves, this straight "Page Boy" or Bob is what I called it when I wore it in the 1970's. It made a come back in 2007 too.

 

 

 Fashion Accessories

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edwardian

 1900-1910

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By the mid 1800s the millinery had established itself as being on the same level as haute couture with the first important name in millinery being Caroline Reboux. Hats were designed specifically for the individual and were used to emphasize and even exaggerate their personal characteristics. 

The following paragraph came from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:

The Edwardian period or Edwardian era in the United Kingdom is the period 1901 to 1910 the reign of King Edward VII.  It succeeded the Victorian period and is sometimes extended to include the period up to the sinking of the Titanic in 1912, the start of WWI in 1914, or even the end of the war in 1918.  Socially, the Edwardian era was the period during which the British class system was at its most rigid, although paradoxically, changes in social thought, particularly the rising interest in socialism,  attention to the plight of the poor and the status of women, expressed in, for example, the issue of women's suffrage, together with increased economic opportunities as a result of rapid industrialization, created an environment in which there could be more social mobility and people would become more liberal. This change would be hastened in the aftermath of the first World War. The upper classes embraced leisure sports, which led to rapid developments in fashion, as more mobile and flexible clothing styles were needed. The corset was modified; its everyday wearing was gradually abandoned. 

Edwardian Hats

 

During the late Edwardian period hats became very much a status symbol, encouraging many more society women to develop their skills as milliners. Hats continued to be popular until the 1960s, when they underwent a steady decline. Millinery today has benefited from somewhat of a revival and the return of hat wearing is gradually becoming more common. 

 

 

 

 

Before

and 

After

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Cassidy sisters 1920 they all wore small hats pulled down to the eyes called cloche.

 

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Spectacles/Eyewear 

The history of eyewear starts from 1760, but we are only interested in eyewear from the history of photography starting in 1840s. To discuss eyewear it is necessary to know the names/terms of the parts, we created a list of terms below and samples.  As usual we created an Eyewear Time Line Table when we research any topic, in efforts to keep reading down to a minimum and an easier visual to determine the date of a photo, hopefully with ease. We did list the resources/credits used for the table for more reading for those who want to read the entire history or see a list of their resources, books they read etc.

Terminology:

Lenses - prescription glass many shapes, tear drops, octagon, rectangular, round.

Frame - holds both lenses

Temple, temple arm - mechanism holding the temple to the frame. Temples are the clue to the age of the spectacles in most cases. Double folding temples, sliding temples. Turn-pin temples.

"D" Frame glasses. with "K" bridge. "D" shape side panels.

Once while at a costuming event, I was wearing sunglasses and this fellow costumer said to me that the only people who wore sunglasses had syphilis. I had to laugh out loud. Some day I will have to research that tid-bit.

 

1865

Tear drop shape lense, Crank bridge, narrow temples.

Arms adjust

 

 

 

 

 

 

1880

Pince-nez , tear drops lenses, upside down "U" bridge, chain

 

 

James Joyce Wearing Windsor Eyeglasses
James Joyce, writer

Beginning in 1880 a style of round lens eyeglasses were made with Roman Steel or gold filled steel base coated with plastic called "Zylo". The style went out of fashion here in the 1930's, after the introduction of the nose pad in 1921.but remained popular in Europe and Asia until after WWII.

Joyce is wearing Windsors covered with an early type of plastic called "zylo". Zylo was introduced around WWI. Zylo could be black, brown, blond, and tortoise shell.

Characteristics of this style are: round lenses, a nose saddle (no nose pads), and temples that loop behind the ear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pince-nez - French translation, to pinch and nose and pronounced "pans-ney", they have no arms and clip on to the nose

Oxford Spectacles - A type of pince-nez, 

 

The oxford style was invented by a professor at Oxford University in the late 1800s when he had nose pads added to his lorgnettes. The first oxfords were simply modified lorgnettes. The style became popular and examples were made by most optical manufacturers. They reached their peak popularity around 1885 and remained until around 1920. During their prime, Pince nez accounted for over two thirds of all eyeglasses worn in the US. There are two basic types of Pince Nez, The C bridge and The hard Bridge. 

 

Katherine Lee Bates Wearing EyeglassesKatharine Lee Bates
Author of "America the Beautiful"

Katharine Lee Bates is wearing a style of wire rim pince-nez eyeglasses popular in the 1880's. Notice the chain. The chain was connected to a hair pin for women and an ear clip for men. At this time, both men and women wore the same style glasses. Rimless pince-nez became popular after 1900. The major reason was that the lens could be cut to any shape needed. This was important after bifocals became common. The early frames such as worn by Bates had either a distance or a reading lens.

 

 


Theodore Roosevelt

Teddy Roosevelt wearing Pince-Nez eyeglasses. This style was popular from 1870 until 1939. 

People looking to dating men's clothing may want to begin by looking at what the U.S. Presidents were wearing. There is so much there, from hairstyles, suits, eyewear and facial hair. Click here to see U.S. Presidents thumbnails gleaned from wikipedia for a quick reference to decades.

 

 

 

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Eyewear Time Line Table 

1760  1800  1820 1840 1860 1870  1880s 1890 1900 1910 1920 1930
Round lens shape     Round lens return "Windsor style" 
Octagonal appearing by 1840 - 1890s     1921 Nose pad invented
        Windsors coated with plastic called "Zylo" was introduced around WWI.
  Most common style eyewear bridge the Crank or U with straight ends, K, X and U style as well. See samples      
Rectangular or oblong lenses are before 1800 to 1890's  
  Oxfords were popular up until the 1800 - 1930s
Although pince-nez were used in Europe in the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries, modern ones appeared in the 1840s and reached their peak popularity around 1880 to 1900. By the late 1930s, they were popular mostly with the elderly.
Oval lenses start just before 1800 into the 1920s  

More reading, resources:

http://www.sptddog.com/sotp/spec.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pince-nez

http://flickrhivemind.net/Tags/pincenez/Interesting

http://www.eyeglasseswarehouse.com/pages/2077-10.html

http://vintageopticalshop.com/vintage-eyeglasses/horn-rim-retro-glasses.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

1930s

 

 

Bonnie Parker from the famous "Bonnie and Clyde" sporting a beret cocked to one side, finger waves and high heel version of Mary Jane shoes

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Parasols are found in photographs as props and are not much help for photo dating purposes yet, we'll research eventually. They are beautiful images just the same..1920s enjoyed parasols too.

 

 

 
ea

 

 

Photo Dating Notes: estimate 1870 - 1880

hair pieces popular, chunky chains

close up of similar chunky chain, different style same concept.

 

 

Wallpaper in the 1860's 

The information on this topic came from "The History Buff Articles" Titled "Wallpaper manufacturing in the 1860's" by R.J. Brown.  This is an example of researching any item found in your photograph to pin down a date.  Surprise! this cabin had wallpaper in it.

Wallpaper in this era would fit into one of three general design patterns: floral, geometric (scrolls, diamond shapes, stripes, etc.) and scenic which fell into two subcategories; wall murals comprised of full-wall scenes like a forest and small scenes perhaps two or three across and then stacked along the roll.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The short period, known as the Belle Époque, encompassed the reign of King Edward VIII, 1901 to 1910, the son of Queen Victoria, who was already 56, when he succeeded to the throne. In contrast to Victoria's era of restraint, Edward VIII is known for ruling during a time of extravagance and sophistication. Much like when Diana, Princess of Wales, captured the publics imagination and prevailed as a style-setter, Edward's wife, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, defined style for her era. Total femininity was the era's ideal and handmade lace, silk, embroidery and feathers were the fashion choice of high society. Complimenting the look, the jewelry emphasized diamonds made to appear as fine and delicate as possible. These exquisite pieces are considered to be among the finest jewelry every made.

Improved setting and diamond cutting techniques, spearheaded by firms such as Cartier and Tiffany, were initiated during the Art Nouveau period which immediately preceded and overlapped the Edwardian period. Although this was just the beginning of the gemstone cutting progress that would be made during the Art Deco period, Edwardian jewelry capitalized on the design opportunities offered by such dramatic new cuts as the pear shape as well as the technology that allowed for invisible diamond settings. Platinum was the choice for these settings which extended and enhanced the brilliance and whiteness of the diamonds. Actually, extensive use of platinum characterized the Edwardian period. Skilled designers, understanding and taking advantage of the unique strength of platinum, were able to fabricate jewelry that was extremely thin and lightweight. These masterpieces of engineering included the era's famous lace-look pieces which showcased open work designs and scalloped patterned edges. Also popular was the mill grained setting, which gained its name from the tiny grains or beads that were created when the thin bead of metal that secured the stone was ridged and textured. This setting technique resulted in an almost invisible rim around a diamond. Another Edwardian setting technique utilized knife edge wires, thin blades of metal with the sharp edge facing upwards, so that the metal was barely visible. Edwardian jewelers reinterpreted the Victorian era bow, creating theirs in platinum with a honeycomb pattern of fine mesh. The era's distinctive delicate style was also reflected in rings, pendants and brooches. Dress necklines dictated neck ornaments of varying lengths with the "Suitor" necklace and the "Negligee" pendant uniquely Edwardian choices. The Suitor was a long necklace of either pearls or a fine chain which ended in a tassel. The Negligee pendant featured two drops of unequal length hanging from either another stone or a thin chain.

Although this was a time when wealth was openly displayed and grand jewelry was in demand, less expensive pieces of great beauty were  also enjoyed.  Gypsy rings were in demand by both men and women.  Bar pins were also popular. Other favorite jewelry items included gold chain bracelets set with turquoise and pearls as well as half hoop bangles set with pearls, diamonds or other stones and snake rings.

 

 

 

 

1860-1914

This jewelry is called Chatelaines.  It is basically a medallion hooked onto a belt and the end of each chain you would attach objects you would want handy.  I would want my hand-fan and glasses and maybe some lip color or rouge, a locket and watch.  If you were a seamstress you may want scissors, a thimble or measuring tool. Housekeepers would use them for the keys to each room in the house.

 

 

 

 

 

Close up:

watch or locket

key

shoe hook

stamp box

perfume

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hairstyles - Early 1900- 1930's

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1880s 

Victorian's were big on hair pieces.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Facial Hair Timeline Table in the United States

Photographs of the U.S. Presidents are a good source for the latest fashions of their era. Lots of information here, the highlighted items helps as visual aide spotting trends in facial hair as well as men's fashion. This is a good place to check out lapels, ties, glasses, hair, etc. 

*N/H = no facial hair, including sideburns

Full beard includes: sideburns, chin, mustache

 

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Last Update

Always a work in progress, please visit often. We apologist for any long periods between entries some times medical issues prevail.

 Rev. 06/23/2017

 

 

 

 

 

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